D. Schmid, C. Schuerch, F. Zuelli
Euro Cosmetics: (2006)
Skin ages in two ways: one is slow and normal and the other is the rapid aging induced by sunlight. UV-screening compounds to reduce damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation are almost ubiquitous in nature. The most active natural UV-absorbing substances are the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) which are produced by certain algae, corals and zooplankton. The peak absorption of MAA in the UVA range and their absorption coefficients are similar to those of synthetic sunscreens. Two in vitro studies demonstrated a DNA-protecting effect and the viability enhancing properties of MAA from red alga Porphyra umbilicalis. A human study showed that a cream containing MAA efficiently protects the skin against UVA- induced lipid oxidation.
UVA-screening compounds from red algae protect against photoageing
D. Schmid, C. Schuerch, F. Zuelli
Personal Care (1): 29 - 31(2004)
Whereas the intensity of UVB depends on the season, the time of day and cloudiness, UVA is present every day in significant amounts, even indoors. Of real relevance for daily skin care is therefore not the SPF-value but the efficacy of the product to protect against UVA. Mycosporine-like amino acids are powerful, natural UVA screening substances produced by certain algae, corals and cyanobacteria. The food grade red alga Porphyra umbilicalis was used to isolate mycosporine-like amino acids. In cell culture experiments with mouse fibroblasts isolated mycosporine-like amino-acids were found to protect in a concentration dependent manner against UVA irradiation. The mycosporine-like amino acids were then tested in a human study with exposure to UVA doses corresponding to typical working day situations. The study showed that a product with mycosporine-like amino acids performed as well as a cream with a synthetic UVA sunscreen regarding skin lipid oxidation and skin ageing parameters such as elasticity and roughness.
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UV-A sunscreen from red algae for protection against premature skin aging
D. Schmid, C. Schuerch, and F. Zuelli
Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (2004)
In summer time at the beach, people know that they have to protect themselves with sun creams against sunburn. But sunlight affects our skin every day of the year, which finally leads to premature skin aging, also called photoaging, This is shown by the fact that permanent exposed skin sites, such as the face and hands show in general more aging signs than covered skin. The principal etiologic factor of premature skin aging is UV-A. Unlike UV-B, UV-A is not dependent on time of day or season, and it penetrates rather well through clouds and window glass. Skin therefore need protection against daily exposure to UV-A.
Cosmetic ingredients intended for everyday use should be absolutely safe. Mycosporine-like amino acids are UV-A sunscreens produced by certain algae, Corals and zooplankton. We have found the red alga Porphyra umbilicalis, a traditional sea vegetable better known as "Nori" to be a rich source of mycosporine-like amino acids. A preparation of mycosporine-like amino acids in liposomes was tested in a study on UV-A induced skin aging. In this study a UV-A dose was applied that corresponds to everyday situations in central Europe. Comparing skin lipid oxidation and skin aging parameters such as elasticity, wrinkle depth and roughness a cream with liposomal mycosporine-like amino acids performed as well as a cream with a synthetic UV-A screen.
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Mycosporine-like amino acids: natural UV-screening compounds from red algae to protect the skin against photoaging
D. Schmid, C. Schuerch, F. Zuelli, H.-P. Nissen, H. Prieur
SÖFW-Journal 129 (11): 38 - 41 (2003)
UV-screening compounds to reduce damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation are almost ubiquitous in nature. The most active natural UV-absorbing substances are the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA's) that are produced by certain algae, corals and cyanobacteria. The peak absorption of MAA's is in the UVA range and their absorption coefficients are similar to those of synthetic sunscreens. A human study showed that a cream containing MAA's from the red alga Porphyra umbilicalis efficiently protects the skin aginst UVA exposure on a typcal working day.
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