Antioxidants from Grape Seeds Protect Hair Against Reactive Oxygen Species
F. Zülli, E. Belser, M. Neuenschwander & R. Muggli
Mibelle AG, Switzerland
Personal Care, October: 65 - 67 (2001)
Oxygen based radicals are predominantly generated in the water phase. Therefore, it is very important to use not only lipophilic antioxidants but also water-soluble radical scavengers in cosmetic formulations. Vitamin C, glutathion and different enzymes are natural water-soluble antioxidants. Unfortunately, most of them are not stable in cosmetic formulations.
We studied a new water-soluble antioxidant based on procyanidins isolated from grape seeds. These procyanidins together with tocopherols form a very powerful antioxidant-complex which is stable in water.
The activity of this antioxidant-complex was investigated by a novel method whereby the toxicity of UV-A irradiated lipids is measured in a cell culture assay. The test results confirm that the combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble antioxidants performs extremely well.
It has been recognized that human hair is exposed to different reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated in wet hair. Thus, we investigated the activity of grape seed antioxidants in different hair care applications. Our experiments show that UV-irradiation of wet hair or drying with a hair dryer can significantly damage it. However, the pretreatment of hair with the antioxidant-complex offered a good protection.
The antioxidant-complex even worked in a hair conditioner used in a rinse-off experiment. Thus, we conclude that the application of antioxidants based on procyanidins from grape seeds in combination with tocopherols can protect hair against reactive oxygen species originating from environmental hazards.
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Collagen Glycation and Skin Aging
Schmid Daniel, Muggli Reto and Zülli Fred
Mibelle AG Cosmetics
Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 2002: 118 – 124
The Maillard reaction is a non-enzymatic browning process involving reducing sugars and amino groups of amino acids or proteins. It occurs in most foods on heating and also takes place in vivo, in living organisms. At body temperature, this process, called protein glycation, occurs more slowly. But the reaction products accumulate during aging, especially if long-lived proteins, such as structural collagen or lens crystallins, are affected.
Maillard reaction products are irreversible and detrimental for protein function as they lead to protein crosslinking. They have been implicated in pathologies associated with diabetes, atherosclerosis, and Alzheimer's disease. But for all individuals, the consequences of protein glycation are involved in the general aging phenomenon.
Collagens are important proteins for the skin, as they are essential for structure and function of the extracellular matrix in the dermis. Thinner and wrinkled skin, the typical signs of normal aging, are the consequence of reduced collagen. Protein glycation contributes to skin aging as it deteriorates the existing collagen by crosslinking. Accelerated skin aging is especially noticeable in diabetic patients, where glycation is increased because of the high serum glucose level.
For diabetic patients, drugs against glycation are available; but as glycation significantly contributes to skin aging in everybody, we have looked for safe anti-glycation substances as ingredients in cosmetics. Since the formation of dangerous crosslinking glycation products is dependent on oxidation reactions, the application of antioxidants in cosmetic products was the strategy we chose to prevent glycation. As antioxidants, we used a mixture of a water soluble extract from grape seeds and lipid soluble tocopherol. This mixture was tested for inhibition of protein glycation by in vitro glycation assays with the anti-glycation drug, aminoguanidine serving as the control. Our results show that antioxidants do indeed protect against protein glycation to a similar extent as that achieved with aminoguanidine.
download pdf
F. Zülli, E. Belser, M. Neuenschwander & R. Muggli
Mibelle AG, Switzerland
Personal Care, October: 65 - 67 (2001)
Oxygen based radicals are predominantly generated in the water phase. Therefore, it is very important to use not only lipophilic antioxidants but also water-soluble radical scavengers in cosmetic formulations. Vitamin C, glutathion and different enzymes are natural water-soluble antioxidants. Unfortunately, most of them are not stable in cosmetic formulations.
We studied a new water-soluble antioxidant based on procyanidins isolated from grape seeds. These procyanidins together with tocopherols form a very powerful antioxidant-complex which is stable in water.
The activity of this antioxidant-complex was investigated by a novel method whereby the toxicity of UV-A irradiated lipids is measured in a cell culture assay. The test results confirm that the combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble antioxidants performs extremely well.
It has been recognized that human hair is exposed to different reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated in wet hair. Thus, we investigated the activity of grape seed antioxidants in different hair care applications. Our experiments show that UV-irradiation of wet hair or drying with a hair dryer can significantly damage it. However, the pretreatment of hair with the antioxidant-complex offered a good protection.
The antioxidant-complex even worked in a hair conditioner used in a rinse-off experiment. Thus, we conclude that the application of antioxidants based on procyanidins from grape seeds in combination with tocopherols can protect hair against reactive oxygen species originating from environmental hazards.
download pdf
Collagen Glycation and Skin Aging
Schmid Daniel, Muggli Reto and Zülli Fred
Mibelle AG Cosmetics
Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 2002: 118 – 124
The Maillard reaction is a non-enzymatic browning process involving reducing sugars and amino groups of amino acids or proteins. It occurs in most foods on heating and also takes place in vivo, in living organisms. At body temperature, this process, called protein glycation, occurs more slowly. But the reaction products accumulate during aging, especially if long-lived proteins, such as structural collagen or lens crystallins, are affected.
Maillard reaction products are irreversible and detrimental for protein function as they lead to protein crosslinking. They have been implicated in pathologies associated with diabetes, atherosclerosis, and Alzheimer's disease. But for all individuals, the consequences of protein glycation are involved in the general aging phenomenon.
Collagens are important proteins for the skin, as they are essential for structure and function of the extracellular matrix in the dermis. Thinner and wrinkled skin, the typical signs of normal aging, are the consequence of reduced collagen. Protein glycation contributes to skin aging as it deteriorates the existing collagen by crosslinking. Accelerated skin aging is especially noticeable in diabetic patients, where glycation is increased because of the high serum glucose level.
For diabetic patients, drugs against glycation are available; but as glycation significantly contributes to skin aging in everybody, we have looked for safe anti-glycation substances as ingredients in cosmetics. Since the formation of dangerous crosslinking glycation products is dependent on oxidation reactions, the application of antioxidants in cosmetic products was the strategy we chose to prevent glycation. As antioxidants, we used a mixture of a water soluble extract from grape seeds and lipid soluble tocopherol. This mixture was tested for inhibition of protein glycation by in vitro glycation assays with the anti-glycation drug, aminoguanidine serving as the control. Our results show that antioxidants do indeed protect against protein glycation to a similar extent as that achieved with aminoguanidine.
download pdf
