D. Schmid, E. Belser, F. Zuelli
Cosmetics & Toiletries: 55- 62 (2007)
Cosmetic products used for a soft, healthy-looking tan are becoming popular. Commonly used self-tanning ingredient produce Maillard reaction-derived pigments that do not provide protection against UV. A new ingredient is described that confers tanning and protection by stimulation of melanin synthesis.
Stimulation of Melanin Synthesis for Tanning and Protection
D. Schmid, Ch. Liechti, F. Zuelli
SÖFW-Journal 132 (7): 38 - 42 (2006)
The neuropeptide beta-endorphin, principally known to induce an analgesic effect and a feeling of euphoria in the central nerve system, was shown in the last years by several research groups to play also a role in peripheral organs such as the skin.
There, beta-endorphin was found to participate in the regulation of pigmentation. Monk’s pepper (Vitex agnus castus) is a shrub native to the Mediterranean area with black berries that are used as herbal medicine. Compounds of these berries were found to exert a beta-endorphin-like activity. In studies with melanocytes we could show that an extract of Monk’s pepper berries stimulated specifically the melanin synthesis.
In vivo a combination of acetyl tyrosine, a stable substrate for melanin synthesis and the Monk’s pepper berries extract induced skin tanning. Detailed analysis of the in vivo experiment showed the individual effects of acetyl tyrosine and the plant extract.
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